Tobago Cays - St. Lucia

Tobago Cays was spectacular as usual; even with a few more knots of wind than what we usually have experienced here. We spent two nights in Tobago Cays, which is never long enough, but we had a great time nonetheless. The morning we arrived, Travis and I put our snorkel gear on and didn’t return for two hours. We were swimming with turtles and looking at all the different and beautiful fish on the reef. Some of the turtles were friendly enough to let us touch them, that was a highlight for us, something special. The next morning Travis and I took my mom snorkeling with us and got a few pictures of her touching the turtles as well. Travis and I kayaked to the one of the few beach and walked the little island, seeing a few huge iguanas. The stingrays come out later in the afternoon so we took another snorkel out and saw a few Southern Stingrays’. We also saw a strange looking fish called a balloon fish. The next morning, we were set to leave but were determined to have one last snorkel, even though the wind had picked up even more. We took the dinghy out to the big reef and dropped the anchor. The current was too strong so we didn’t stay long. Travis and I swam back to the boat from the reef. On the way we saw a spotted moray eel and I found a pretty shell that looks like a butterfly. 

Travis touching a turtle

Mom touching a turtle

Balloonfish

butterfly shell

Basils beach bar

When we left Tobago Cays, we had a pretty rough sail to Mustique. A few of us were feeling a little queasy on board. We arrived in Mustique around 3pm and attached to a buoy. The master of buoys came to collect our fee and told us that the island was on lockdown. Mustique is a private island and is made famous due to the fact that a few celebrities /famous people have holiday houses on the island. The previous week, some yachties took pictures of a famous person when they were instructed not to, which put the island on lockdown. As a result of this we were only allowed on a small section of the island called the “ green zone”. We were told that at the time we were there, Bryan Adams and Mick Jagger were on the island. That evening we went to the famous Basils beach bar for their Wednesday night jump up. It is the place to be as the occasional celebrity makes an appearance on a Wednesday or Sunday evening. We, however, weren’t so lucky to see any celebrities. The next day we came to the island, did a bit of grocery shopping and walked around the few shops they had. That evening we were booked to go to the very exclusive Cotton House boutique hotel for dinner. We were fetched by a driver at 6:45pm and taken out of the green zone to the hotel. The hotel was spectacular! It was an old sugar mill that had been converted. We had the most delicious dinner, and I had without a doubt the best mojito I have ever had, a lemongrass mojito. After a superb evening, we all headed back to the boat to bed as we were set to sail early the next morning.

Ready to go to the Cotton house

Infront of the cotton house restaurant

Travis with his yellowfin tuna

Travis filleting his fish

The sail to St. Lucia I would hazard a guess to say was the roughest we have ever had. The wind ranged between 20-33 knots, the swell height 3-4 meters hitting our starboard bow. Our maximum speed reached was 11 knots! As we were approaching St. Lucia the sea died down a bit so we could put our rods out. Travis caught a decent size yellow-fin tuna, the second one we have ever caught. He was so excited, he even filleted his own fish. We were all looking forward to dinner. As we got closer to St. Lucia we saw this huge creature in the water, we thought it might have been a whale, but then this turtle popped its head out. It is the first leatherback turtle we have ever seen. Leatherback turtle fins can measure up to 2 meters in-length and can exceed the weight of 900 kilograms. They are the largest turtle and are endangered. As we reached St. Lucia and were sailing up the south of the island we were approached and stopped by the coastguard. They were all well armed and seemed very serious. They asked us what our last port of call was, where we were from and what was in the jerry cans we had on deck. After about five scary minutes they let us carry on. We sailed another hour and a half before attaching to a buoy in Marigot Bay. We were all so tired when we got to Marigot Bay but we had to go onshore to clear customs and immigration. After that it was so hot we all went to the Hurricane hotel. This is were we meet our dear friend Robert Hayhurst and celebrated Rebecca’s 16^th birthday in 2012.  We went to the swimming pool and had a drink at the pool bar while taking a nice cool dip. It was an early night for everyone to get some rest.

About the size of the leatherback turtle we saw

Travis and I had planned to do an island tour the next morning but there were no cars available for hire. So it was a relaxed day at Marigot Bay. We took the dinghy and went snorkeling, and finished the day at Doolittles, a restaurant that is in the area where the first Dr. Doolittle movie was filmed. 

Hanging out in the dinghy

Humpback whale

We did an early sail up to Rodney Bay the next day as Travis and I had hired a car. Once again mother- nature was kind to us and we got to see some humpback whales. We followed them for about an hour but had to cut our time with them short as we had to fetch our hire car. When we eventually got our little red car we set of for the famous volcanic Pitons. Mrs Navigator (me) definitely needs to go for lessons as we got lost and ended up on the wrong side of the island. Needless to say this added an hour and a half more to our trip. When we got to he Pitons it was already 12:30pm so we had lost a lot of time. Travis and I began to climb Gros Piton but I was going too slowly so I only made it half way and then walked down again. Travis basically ran the last half of the mountain. It was just after three when we left the Pitons and we decided to go for lunch. We drove to the Jalouise plantation and had a quick bite before heading to the Sulphur Springs. We only arrived there after five so we changed into our swimming costumes and got covered in mud. We dried and then rinsed off again in the warm sulphur spring. We left it a little late to drive back to Rodney Bay along all of St. Lucias windy roads, so we only made it back after 8pm.

Humpback whale

At the bottom of the piton

Travis at the top of the piton

Travis and me covered in mud at the sulphur springs

Tuesday was a very sad and tearful day as I had to say goodbye to Travis again. We drove him to the airport and said our farewells. I only hope to see him again, sooner than later.

Jangles on the move

Jangles going in the water

Jangles is once again in the water! We launched on Friday 28^th March. We unfortunately still couldn’t leave… as we put the boat in the water we discovered that the starboard engine was not working, after we had checked and started it the day before, only to find out that the battery had died. So the next day we had to go and buy a new battery. Saturday afternoon we started putting the genoa back up and the sail tore along the seam. And naturally Monday was a public holiday (one of the 20-something ones in Trinidad each year) so we were still in Trinidad till Tuesday to repair our sail. So Sunday we motored to a small bay called Turtle Bay for the evening. On Monday morning a pod of dolphins came into the bay and stayed swimming around for hours. Travis and I put the kayak in the water and started kayaking with the dolphins. They were jumping up next to the kayak and swimming underneath it, it was so amazing! Travis dropped me back at the boat and took my mom kayaking with the dolphins too. That afternoon we motored back to Crews Inn with our sail ready to go in the next morning. Our victron was also giving us trouble as well as our solar panels so we got those repaired as well while we were there.

Travis and I kayaking with dolphins

Mom and Travis

Scotland Bay

Wednesday everything was done, the sails were up and we were ready to go. My dad says if you own a boat you must use it, otherwise it costs you money in maintenance. We sailed to a little bay called Scotland Bay, where we had dinner and slept for a few hours. Around midnight the anchor was lifted, the sails were raised and we were off to Grenada…Finally! As we were leaving Trinidad we had a pod of GIANT dolphins swim with our boat for a while and give us a show by jumping out of the water. We sailed through the early hours of the morning and around 7:30am, another pod of dolphins swam with our boat. As the sun came up, the rods went out. The first reel to run was a barracuda. We tossed him back, and then the next rod ran. Travis reeled in his first fish aboard Jangles. We couldn’t decide whether it was a kingfish or a Spanish mackerel (ended up being a Spanish mackerel) so we threw it back too as Kingfish have been known to carry a reef poison. Before we arrived in Grenada we had yet another pod of small young dolphins swim and jump around our boat. We had been so lucky! After 12 hours of sailing at an average speed of 7.1 knots, we reached Grenada.

Dolphins swimming by the bow

Travis with his first fish

Travis and I snorkeled the sculpture gardens in Grenada that afternoon as well as the next morning before we headed off to Sandy Island. The sculpture garden is basically a whole bunch of sculptures that have been placed around the bottom of a bay in Grenada; which you can snorkel or dive to see them. Mom and dad opted to catch up with a friends son who has relocated to Grenada and to watch South Africa play cricket in the semi-finals of the T20 against India, unfortunately for my cricket mad mom it was not to be South Africa’s day once again.

Travis and me on Sandy Island

We arrived at Sandy Island around 8pm in the evening. It was pitch black and we were expecting to find buoys to attach to but they all seemed to have vanished in the year and a bit since we were last here. We managed on our second attempt to get the anchor to hold in the sand, a little stressful for us all but mostly for the Captain/dad. Once we were finally anchored after we had had yummy pies that we had bought from a little bakery in St Louis that is owned by a lovely South African couple we settled down for the night. The following morning, Travis, my mom and I, took the dinghy onto the island. It was a bit of a mission as the wind was howling, so we all arrived a little soaked. We swam in the inland pool for a while and Travis and I snorkeled off the beach but we went back to the boat soon as we saw my dad trying to raise the anchor and move the boat as the anchor had started to drag. Once we were all back on the boat we had lunch and then motored to Hillsborough to check out.

Dinner on PSV

From Hillsborough we sailed a short hour and a half to get to Petite St. Vincent, a topnotch private resort. We took the dinghy onto the small island and went to the beach bar to make reservations for dinner. We stayed at the bar for a while, had a drink and a few snacks before going back to the boat to shower and change for dinner. The absent family was hugely missed as the last time we were here the whole family was together. Josh especially as he kept us entertained trying out all sort of cocktails on the menu. The beach restaurant was relatively quiet and we got a nice table near the ocean. We all filled up on good food and great company before making our way back to Jangles. The next morning Travis and I kayaked to the private beach and walked a while along it. We all agree that this is one of our favourite places in the world, but we didn’t stay long as we had another destination to get to.

Rebs mom says you have caught the bouquets at the last two cousins’ weddings. Dad says he will be home soon with a big shotgun!! We have just checked into Union Island and will spend the next few days in Tobago Cays and Mustique.

Union Island